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Restoring a woodie is largely a contemplative experience. Each of us spends an inordinate amount of time just staring at our woodie, absorbed and thinking, trying to figure out just how some aspect of the project should look...sound...feel...or? Most of you already know what I mean. This think and dream time, hard to separate the two, is an integral part of the fun but it also can be very frustrating at times, especially making the final choices and decisions. Hopefully, the following information will make your finishing choices easier.
Choosing the right finish for your woodie depends on several important considerations: Is your woodie being restored to original? Will it be shown and judged for points on its originality? Perhaps it will be a ‘driver’ or a ‘street rod’? Do you have small children? Dogs? Where do you live? California? Alaska? North Dakota? How about the Gobi Desert? Do you like ‘super shiny’? Do you have access to spray facilities? What is your vision for your woodie?
What are the choices for finishes?
Varnish
In the beginning there was varnish. An excellent and ancient (Stradivarius mixed his own!), tough, reliable and, most important, EASY to apply wood finish. Varnish flows out so smooth all by itself. You can brush it, spray it, or rub it on with a rag. It is very adaptable and beautifully lustrous after six, eight or even more coats. Anyone can use it and apply it at home but it does take time, especially the thorough sandings between coats. Ford, GM, Chrysler and every other company that originally produced woodies used varnish as their primary finishing material. Varnish was simply the best product available for exterior finishing during the twenties, thirties and forties, even into the fifties and sixties. Good stuff then, good stuff now.
Varnish comes in GLOSS and SATIN. Woodies came in gloss from the factories. There are woodies that still have their original varnish today and sometimes this varnish appears to be satin but that most likely is due to the effects of age.
The only real drawback to varnish was DURABILITY or the lack of it, especially with the earlier formulas. As all woodie owners have experienced, varnish deteriorates under sun, rain and abrasion resulting in cracking, splitting and peeling of the finish, leaving the wood unprotected. A woodie kept in daily use with a varnish finish will need to have a sanding and revarnish job every year or two in order to stay sharp. This constant maintenance problem was the main reason for the ultimate demise of the woodie as a production car. Yes, they were difficult and expensive to produce as well but the buying public’s inability and/or unwillingness to keep sanding and varnishing the wood always held sales down-especially after the steel bodied wagons appeared!
Much has changed since the days when woodies were production cars. Varnish, for one, has improved greatly now having excellent ultra-violet, UV, protection and much tougher formulas, translating into much better durability and longevity. Modern varnish makes a wonderful finish. Probably the greatest difference between ‘then’ and ‘now’, however, is the simple fact that, today, few woodies are used as all-weather daily drivers! All things considered, modern varnish makes an excellent choice for your pampered woodie.
Many fine brands of varnish are on the shelf. I like Z-SPAR FLAGSHIP and EPIFANES for their great UV protection. I like Z-SPAR CAPTAIN’S and INTERLUX SCHOONER for their wonderful warm, golden tone and these also have good UV protection. Always read the instructions of the brand you choose. Also make sure that you have the correct thinner to match the varnish. It is best to buy varnish by the quart. The gallon is less expensive but it will ‘skim over’ and become useless long before you get to the bottom of the big can!
Applying varnish can be a very enjoyable, Zen experience! We’ll get to that soon.
Urethanes
Basically, these are automotive clear-coats and they are REALLY TOUGH! They require a catalyst, they must be sprayed and they can be TOXIC! You will need a ventilated spray booth, quality respirator and an inexpensive spray suit would be advisable as well. If you can put this package in place, you can quickly shoot a lifetime, super-durable finish on your wood and spray THREE coats at a time! Urethane glosses out like polished glass and cures out in a few days as hard as nails. Yes, it IS flexible too! (How’d they do that?) All automotive paint companies produce a catalyzed urethane for clear coats. I have been using DUPONT V-7600S with terrific results. No tougher or more glossy finish is available! I do love varnish but the catalyzed urethanes get my vote for the best finish that you can buy! However, because of the high VOC and toxic nature of this material, it is not for everyone and it is not readily available in California. At least it is not supposed to be? Check with your local auto paint store or local body shop.
Oh yes, this is real high-tech stuff and you MUST follow the manufacturers instructions precisely! Urethanes are NOT ZEN!
Other Choices
I understand that some similar finishing materials are now available in ‘water-base’ but I have no experience to date with any of these products. Eventually, all finishes will have to be water-based and environmentally friendly. A very good idea, especially if these products can be made to be as tough as the solvent-based finishes of which I am familiar. Time will tell.
There is another class of finishes known as POLYURETHANES. They are readily available at all hardware stores, they apply with a brush or spray very similar to varnish products but they are different chemically from the varnishes. Some are water-based too. They are very durable and easy to apply, however, they do not have any tone. Polyurethanes are very clear, some even have a slightly cold or blue cast to them which I find unsightly on wood. I much prefer the appearance of varnish but if you are looking for a super clear finish that can be applied with a brush at home, polyurethane may be for you. If you are going to use polyurethanes, you can follow the same instructions below for sanding and applying varnish.
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